This weekend has been flippin' mental! Training to the max!!! Saturday I was doing hard routes at ratho with Nat, this was her first hard route session since the hernia operation! It didn't seem like it though, 10 minutes into the session and she made a quick and effortless ascent of Busby's new Tan 7b+ on the comp wall! Not soon after she made two more annoyingly easy ascents of two more 7b+'s, my blue 7b+ on the old comp wall and my yellow 7b+ on the new comp wall, both onsight!!! She then attempted one of my 8a's, falling of just before the roof (7b+ to there?). This girl is a total BEAST!!! The fact that she can do all this after taking more than 8 weeks off climbing makes me feel rather... well... crap! I train nearly everyday, doing everything I can to push my limits and she can just waltz in and run up stuff without a sweat! WHAT AM I DOING SOOOO WRONG!?!?!?!?
Nah... I'm proud of her! She is certainly a star... I shouldn't really expect anything less from Britain's most accomplished competition climber!
Anyway, my session was a little slow due to the fact that it was my 3rd day on or so... but I still got some good routes in! I made a first ascent onsight of Busby's new 7b+, then moved onto my yellow 7b+ which I must say, isn't short of a total masterpiece! I had an attempt on my grey 8a, managed to get far into the roof before nackering out. I didn't expect much (I was feeling like a sac of potatoes), but i continued to push it, got on Lisandro's ripple 8a (one of the best routes at the wall) and did that fairly effortlessly which felt good at the end of a pretty crappy session!
After the route session, Nat and I had a hardcore pull up workout! We attempted to do lock off's for as long as possible with various amounts of weight taken off our body (using a pulley). Every time I took a weight off my stack (for a new set), I would add 6kg to Nats weight stack, which evened itself out quite well! Its funny though, locking off without weight taking off, my record is about 14-20 seconds or so, but once you've done about 8 sets working down to 0kg taken off, trying to do a simple lock off with 0kg taken off is almost impossible!!! I think 5 seconds was my record with 0kg that night hahahahahah!!!
Sunday was a bit more fun! I started off bouldering with Buz and Nat, still feeling destroyed but managed to hold in, even though the body was unwilling, the mind was fighting for more! I did a couple of V7/8's, almost flashed one and did another after quite a few attempts! Then I moved on to circuits, Buz and I crushed some of mcgeeks circuits in the boulder cave (a good workout despite the crappy angle of wall), then I moved on to campus board power endurance! My forearms felt like they wanted to break free of my body, they where screaming in pain by the end of this! 3 sets of 50 moves of 4 fingers and 3 sets of 40 moves on 3 fingers! Usually I do 2 fingers as well but I was now, well and truly gubbed!
What a weekend! Finally, I would just like to congratulate all of my friends who competed in the Leading Ladder Final in Leeds! Rachel Carr who (I heard) was a machine, placing first in U16's! Eddie Barbour (always a beast!) placing 3rd in Mens and Eleanor Hopkins (MRS T!!! - T for training) who placed 4th in U16's!
Congratulations on your awesome results!
Your all champions!!!
Oh yeah! We also at the Phillips household had the pleasure of Tilly Billy's company (Nats dog)! Heres a picture of Donny, KT (Mine) and Tilly playing in the garden. Notice how KT is eating Tilly's football, its no longer Tilly's...
Peace of Mind... Finding it.
4 weeks ago