So... last Saturday I was coaching the young hot shots, Jamie Drummond, Abi Blunt and Andrew Barr (all tipped for top places in the up and coming YCS Rounds). This was my second session with them so far. I will be coaching them on an ongoing basis every 2 weeks, so they'll probably all be on-sighting 8a by the end of the year?
My first session with them (2 weeks previous) was an assessment of their abilities both technical and physical. It was very clear through the bouldering and route session I had with them what exactly where their weak points where. On a general sum up, It was quite obvious that all three lacked confidence. A big sign of this was there inability to push themselves on hard routes. I am certain that all three of them are capable of climbing a lot harder than they show. Over the years, i've seen many a climber give attempt after attempt at hard projects and boulders, and the only thing holding them back is confidence. Shouting "Take!" repeatedly every time you reach a hard move is not going to get you to the top of a climb, and in my own experience, the longer you continue with these habits of doubt and fear of failure, the harder it is going to be to succeed. You don't see Sharma shouting take at every hard move on his route? He is more likely to skip bolts until he gets to a jug! So that is one area I have decided to work with them on. At the end of Saturday session we did some fall practice on a particularly scary part of the old comp wall which I think has helped fight their fear of falling
Each of them had their own specific weaknesses as well. Jamie is amazing at big jumpy moves between positive holds, but he can't crimp or do hard static moves. Andrew is awesome at the crimping and staticness, but fails on the jumpy, open-handed wonder moves and finally Abi, she just needs to improve her confidence and build up her raw power a bit more and then she'll be flying!
So i've made them programs to follow (I hope they are sticking to them). The programs involve a lot on anaerobic training (Hard routes, on-sight and project) as well as a bit of bouldering (Anaerobic Power) and a lot of regeneration and mileage.
But it wasn't just coaching on saturday, I had fun too! I had a hard route session which i started by onsight first ascenting a new 7b+/c, moving onto falling of the final 2 clips of the green 8a. Then I moved on to attempt an onsight of another new 7c (white) which i think might be as hard as the green (maybe a little easier?), 7c+/8a??? But for sure these routes would all be 8a outside... easily... I finished the day doing 3 second locks on some circuits nat made me and I was goosed. Sunday I had my 4x4 endurance session and today I was up at 6:30 gyming it, after I had my campus session and after that I had another aerobic endurance/cardio session on the rowing machines!!!
Altogether a totally awesome weekend to begin a new totally awesome week!
Whats more... the mats are ratho are now fitted and the boulders are ready to be explored and climbed upon once again!!! WOOOOOOOOOOHHH!
5 months ago