Sorry for not posting in a while, been mega busy with climbing! Since New Year, I've started my new periodized training cycle (written by Neil Mcgeachy and Martin Hopkins). It seems very complex when I talking about all the technical terms like anatomic adaptation and anabolic preparation and whatever... but really it is quite simple. Al it entails is moving from large volume:low intensity training to Low volume:High intensity training. I have finished phase 1, this was the high endurance based phase that took 4 weeks to do, and now I'm into the next phase, another 4 week block of laps, campusing, finger boarding, gym work and hard climbing!
At the beginning of the phase, I felt very weak endurance-wise, now I'm feeling a lot better. I seem to be able to lap 7b's without getting pumped which is a start and I made my first ascent of a new 8a at Ratho I set (Psyched!). My bouldering is doing OK at the moment (not brilliant, but OK). I've been having bouldering mileage days where i come in and do an hour of flash/2nd go problems i.e. V5-V7. And everything else has been pretty much endurance based. I feel good on routes right now e.g. I think if i was to go to Ceuse right now I would be on-sighting the 8a's, but I want to be stronger than that! 8c is a big thing for me and I don't think its too far off if I train hard! I might be going to Ceuse this summer so that might be my big break!
What else? I've been doing a bit of coaching as well. I have taken on three new apprentices, Abi Blunt, Jamie Drummond and Andrew Barr. Three awesome climbers and really cool kids. They all have very particular styles and very obvious strengths and weaknesses. All of them have a hard time taking falls and none of them have any belief in themselves... they need to get this sorted because they have so much talent and potential! Saturday is my next session with them and its then they will be receiving their new personalized programs.
Another guy i've been doing a bit of climbing with is Rory (new kid on the block). At 7 years old, he's by far the most determined climber I have ever seen and one of the most talented and promising young rockers I've ever had the pleasure to climb along side. Having climbed with him twice now, and seen him at Ratho almost every day for the past month, he never ceases to amaze me just how totally psyched and focussed he is to succeed! He can be found either in the Ratho cave or on the boulders rippin' up whatever comes his way! Right now his projects include the "whole" Grey 6c+/7a traverse (Boulder cave) and the Orange V1 (Boulders), so don't get in his way otherwise there will be trouble!
TRAIN HARD TO CLIMB STRONG
p.s. Also, set loads of new routes at ratho. Someone get the 2nd ascent of my grey and confirm the grade!!!
5 months ago