Today was the first British Team Regional Meet of the year. Robin Sutton had agreed to come in and do some coaching. Being himslef one of Britain's top level competition climbers and sport climbers, his top tips are invaluable to our progression as climbers. Meeting here (Ratho) today was Angus Davidson, William Bosi, Eleanor Hopkins and Rachel Carr for the younger group and myself (Robbie Phillips), Natalie Berry, Jonathan Field and Paul Williamson. The younger group started their session with Robin at 13:00 whilst we did some climbing.
Climbing today was actually not too bad. I mainly climbed with John Inglis (one of the more dedicated to training climbers at ratho). I started off trying to finish of my project (Green 8a) which i'm convinced is more like 8a+. I then moved onto another project (White 7c) more like 8a, but where the final moves are the 8a and its probably only 7b+ up to there. I fell on the final move, an improvement from previous attempts last week.
As for Robins session, it was totally awesome! We started off learning about how to train power endurance by circuits and problem reps. We did one set of circuits (5 reps) and 2 sets of Problem reps (5 reps as well). The circuits are as long as we want them i.e. whatever length we need to be training. Mine was 35 moves and went up and down the 45 degree board. The circuit has to be easy enough so that you can repeat it at least four and a half times without falling (this is to get the maximum benefit).
After that, we went upstairs to the gym to learn about core training. In the session we covered a variety of different core exercises designed to improve all aspects of core. The exercises varied from strength-based (which hit the larger muscle groups) to more balance-based activities which hit smaller, deeper muscles - vital for a fully functioning, efficient core body strength.
Today I was meant to be doing 4x4's, but thanks to some very selfish friends of mine who would rather go climbing at Glasgow Climbing Centre than belay me, I was forced to scavenge the Ratho arena for potential belay mates. After bouldering for half an hour I grabbed Iain Cropley and James MacCartan. Successful ticks during the day were the first ascent of the white 7c+/8a and a new high point on my green 8a - the last clip! Ian managed to successfully flash my white 7b up the justice wall on top rope as well, a pretty incredible ascent with literally no sign of struggle - less effort than the local wads i've seen expend on it
so altogether, a pretty good day
3 months ago